South Africa
Benin and Togo
Burkina Faso
Senegal Gambia
VISA going north

Tabelle 1: Kenia

Kenia 1€ = 100Ksh June 2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
Nairobi Jungle Junction Camp S1 17.327 E36 45.636 The place to stay in Nairobi. Chris Handschuh is very helpful and provides a safe place with lots of information, advice and help (600Ksh p.p.p.n). We had parked our car here for 6 years and never had any problems (roundabout 45€/month). Only positive experiences. You can camp on the lawn or book a room in the house. Kitchen, living room and internet for everyones free use. Washing machine and motorbike garage are the add ons.
Amboseli National Park AmboselPub Kimana Gate S2 44.229 E37 22.594 Just off Kimana Gate i.e. No park entrance fee and a few animal sightings (especially giraffe). 500 Ksh p.p. Hot shower, nice views of Kilimanjaro.
Amboseli National Park AmbosCamp National Park S2 41.383 E37 13.342 60 $ p.p + 300 Ksh for car for 24 hours
Amboseli National Park KWS community camp
Campsite inside the national park. Beatifully situated on the southern edge of the park with large camp sites under acacia trees. Cold running water. 500 Ksh p.p. Firewood available but need to negotiate price.
Lake Chala Lake Chala Lodge ruin S3 19.290 E37 42.516 Great location of this dysfunct lodge at the edge of the crater lake. Worth visiting, since you can dine in the former bar and scramble through the crumbling building. You need to bring everything (incl water). The ruin is inhabited by 3 older caretakers. They are happy about a small donation. We gave 250 Ksh per person since they provided us with firewood and where very helpful.

Tabelle 2: Tansania

Tansania 1€ = 1800 Tsh July 2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
Moshi Honeybadger S3 21.101 E37 23.024 5$ p.p.p.n Nice garden, great shower
Bagamoyo Travelers Lodge S6 26.021 E38 54.299 12$ p.p.p.n not recommended. You park on the lawn in between some bungalows. The shower is dirty and full of moskitos. The Ocean is hidden behind the bungalows. The bar and restaurant is nice but expensive
Bagamoyo Bagamoyo Beach Resort S6 25.808 E38 54.162 Camp on grass.Good Pool. Nice owner: Jean Do. Good french food and nice restaurant area.
Bagamoyo is a town to visit with old buildings and the active fishing harbour. 7000 Tsh p.p.p.n
Jean Do can help to organize Dhow trips to Zanzibar.
Dar es Salam Kipepeo S6 51.095 E39 21.703 7000 Tsh p.p.p.n Camp on nice beach with shade huts. Good swimming. Nice bar.
Can be overcrowded with overlander trucks. I.e. Start engine in the morning at 4 am etc.
Selous N:P Hippocamp S7 45.950 E38 13.952 Camp just outside the Nationalpark (i.e. No park fees). Very nice camp on river bank with friendly manager. Hippos and bushbabys around you. Camping 10 to 15$ p.p.p.n (negotiate depending on duration of stay). Boat ride 35$ p.p.
Selous N:P Bush camp Selous S7 42.434 E37 58.792 We couldn't find the public campsite and just bush camped. This is OK since there is nobody around and saves you 20$ p.p. Hippos come to visit at night.
Park entry is expensive. 2 people + car are 180 $ for 24 hours excl. Camping. Nevertheless the park is worth seeing due to divers landscapes and good animal sightings (lions and elephants next to car)
Kilwa Masoko See View Resort S8 55.666 E39 31.292 OK Campsite with clean showers and toilet. Good restaurant. 7000 Tsh p.p. Can organize tour to ruins for 20 – 30 $ p.p. Tour to ruins takes 3 hours and is worth seeing. Snorkeling at the beach is OK
Mikindani Old Boma S10 16.943 E40 07.141 Beautifully renovated castle / hotel. They allow you to camp on the parking lot. Showers and toilets at swimming pool can be used. 20.000 Tsh per vehicle. Fast internet connection included. Good sea food nearby at „10 Degrees South“ restaurant.

Tabelle 3: Mozambique

Mozambique 1€ = 47 MTZ July / August 2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments

Visa / Border

No Visa available at Unity Bridge Border. Need to apply in Dar es Salam. Takes 5 working days. We payed 45 $ p.p. but prices seem to have increased. Border crossing is easy and hassle free. No money changers at border.
Road to border is dirt but good to drive. Mosambiquan side is deep dust but also good to drive. Good possibilities for bush camping here.
Mueda Mtima Pensao S11 39.823 E39 33.834 No camping allowed (discussion does not help since they have strict rules in Moz. Owner needs permission to allow for camping) Clean simple rooms. Bucket shower. Restaurant OK. Changing of Tsh to Mtz possible with owner at good rate. 800 Mtz for double room with bath.
Pangane Hashim S11 59.963 E40 32.663 200 Mtz p.p.p.n Guard also cooks for 130 Mtz per dish. Nice beach paradise at fishing village. Good snorkeling and nice walks. Open air shower with fresh water from bucket. Provide one bucket of sweat water every day. Very nice and friendly. Recommendable. The guard urges you to lock all your stuff inside the car during the night, since he sleeps in your hammock.
Pemba Dive and bush camp S13 00.100 E40 30.828 Great camp with perfect infrastructure (shade hut, super showers and toilets, internet for 100 Mtz / hour, sea kajaks, bow and arrow, nice bar, kitchen with fridge, …) 10 $ p.p.p.n. Nice party around camp fire at weekends.
Dive at Wimbe beach 45$ for 1 dive. Good equipment and divemaster.
Ilha de Mozambique Casa Blanca S15 02.022 E40 44.227 30 $ for double room with Bath incl breakfest
Clean, quiet in center of town
Secure parking in fenced garden (narrow gate, i.e. To small for trucks)
Room is higher than wide, bed is to short.
We enjoyed walking around on Ilha, especially at night or dawn. No security issues even walking with camera equipment. Therefore it is worth to stay on the island. The alternative is camping at the bridge on the mainland.
Chocas Mar Wild Camp S14 59.738 E40 46.405 Camp in dunes. 70Mtn per person for community, payed at coral lodge nearby. Palms, white sand, blue water. Good for swimming and snorkling. Fresh fish provided by fishermen.
Gurue Pastor S15 28.308 E36 57.371 Pastor Allen and his wife Ansie are lovely people that allow camping in their garden. House on the hill between tea plantations. We used bathroom in the house. They invited us for dinner and breakfast. Donation accepted. Radio station project can be observed.
Caja CajaCamp S17 47.687 E35 25.039 Only camp in town, signposted from main road. Before crossing Zambezi toll bridge (going south). Camp is OK, clean, quiet, lots of space.
Gorongoza National Park Chitengo – Public Camp Site S18 58.730 E34 21.080 Entry 25 $ p.p. Car 500 Mtz to be payed once for the duration of stay.
Camping 350 Mtz p.p.p.n, Game drive with own vehicle 875 Mtz per day (not per 24 hours)
Campsite was crowded and lacking atmosphere when we visited.
Park: Nice landscpae, good for birding, but not many large mammals to be seen (only loads of warthogs, waterbuck, antelope)
Vilankulos Baobab Village Backbackers S22 00.541 E35 19.321 348 Mtz for 2 people. Nice bar and beach area with hammocks and lots of activity. Musik can be noisy. Nice camping on lawn under palm trees. Frequently visited by overlander trucks.
Dive Base with super tour to Bazaruto Island (Best dives ever !!!). 2 dives 100€ (only cash)
Inhambane Paindane Bay resort S24 06.086 E35 29.968 960 Mtz for 2 people (price for camping in off season but we negotiated to get a casita for this price)
Casita = Shade hut, private bathroom and kitchen
Deep sand in dunes at ocean. We saw whales.
Resort caters for south african visitors, i.e. Big groups with lots of equipment. Careful in main season.
Dive Base available. Reef for good snorkeling just off the beach. i.e. Walk there at low tide.
Bobole Casa Lisa S25 35.094 E32 39.278 1 hour north of Maputo. 490 Mtz for 2 people. OK but nothing special.
Friendly british owner. Good restaurant.
Maputo Residential Palmeiras S25 58.355 E32 34.752 2930 Mtz for double room. Very nice small hotel. Very clean, quiet, great breakfast buffet.
Centrally located with secure parking.
Border crossing to south africa

Very crowdes border with long queues. We payed 10 € to „guides“ who bribed officials to get you through the process within minutes. Also all the locals put money in their passport and go to the head of the queue.

Tabelle 4: South Africa

South Africa 9.6 Rand = 1€ August 2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments

Nelspruit Nelspruit Backpackers S25 28.837 E30 58.434 200 Rand for 2 people. To expensive for parking on gravel in front of the house.
Usage of living room and kitchen. Walking distance to shopping malls.
Do not leave your car unattended. Cars with foreign licence plates will be broken into.
Graskop Caravan Park S24 55.958 E30 50.794 55 Rand p.p.p.n. Nothing special, noisy street with trucks.
Blyde River Canyon Forever Resort S24 34.705 E30 46.560 65 Rand p.p.p.n. Nice lawn, good showers, quiet and empty in off season
Very nice walking trails from lower viewpoint (b1, b2) nice view at rondavels
Kruger Park Letaba Camp S23 51.303 E31 34.764 dusty, crowded, dark
Kruger Park Satara Camp S24 23.668 E31 46.574 Price per night: 150 Rand per campsite, 160 Rand conservation fee p.p.,
Nice camp, restaurant, shop, filling station available, hot water
Komatipoort Caravan Park S25 26.544 E31 57.737 100 Rand + 25 Rand p.p., ok, nothing special, clean, noise from road traffic, 10 km to crocodile gate of Kruger Park
Pretoria Fountains Valley S25 47.233 E28 11.747 60 Rand p.p.p.n., nature reserve in central Pretoria, clean ablution blocks, washing machine,
Noisy road and trains, but o.k. To organize stuff, good security
Bela Bela Forever Resort Warm Bath Bela S24 53.267 E28 17.149 90 Rand p.p.p.n., includes indoor and outdoor swimming pools with hot spring water, 37 – 50 degrees Celcius
Very clean ablution blocks, nice for one day
Tshipise Forever Resort S22 36.348 E30 10.419 100 Rand p.p.p.n., nice outdoor swimming pool with hot water, try to get campsite at the hill,
horse riding for one hour in private game reserve (60 Rand)

Tabelle 5: Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe Currency:US$ (sometimes Rand) September 2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments

Border in Beitbridge Border Crossing
Visum 30 $ p.p. For 30 days at border
Border Fee: 80 Rand
Carbon Tax and Road Fee: 250 Rand (take care that they don't make you pay third party insurance if you have a Yellow Card)
Third Party Insurance: 300 Rand
Custom Inspection was relaxed and no problem → 1.5 hours on Zim side, on Sunday (no trucks)
Bubi (80 km direction of Masvingo) Lion & Elephant Motel S21 42.337 E30 30.002 25 Rand p.p.p.n
Camping OK, close to road, nice walks along river
Very good restaurant area with view on dry river
Masvingo Great Zimbabwe NP
Entry: 15 $ p.p. (paid once, independent of duration)
3$ p.p. For guide (recommended 2-3 hour tour)
Masvingo Great Zimbabwe Campsite S20 16.327 E30 55.840 5 $ p.p.p.n
Nice big camp site with trees for shade, simple ablutions but warm water
Bulawayo Packers Rest
60$ for double room
Clean, shared bathroom, TV, internet not working
Far too expensive. There is a communal campsite close by, but our car was in the garage.
Bulawayo Garage of Julian S20 09.856 E28 34.609 (specialized on Japanese vehicles, but very honest and reliable guy
Bulawayo Garage for injection pumps S20 08.982 E28 35.238 specialist for diesel injection pumps. Good equipment. Fixed our pump.
Bulawayo Matopos National Park
Entry: 15 $ p.p. + 5$ per car (paid once, independent of duration)
Camping 10$ p.p.p.n
Firewood 3$ (very big bunch !)
Bulawayo Maleme Dam @ Matopos S20 32.624 E28 30.164 Nice camp at lake under rocks, clean ablutions
Bulawayo Togwana Dam @ Matopos S20 32.262 E28 36.296 Camp Nr 7. scenic at lake, ablutions not working, no water
Starting point for Nake Cave Trail → nice 6 km (one way) walk, but we didn't find the cave
Hwange Hwange National Park
Entry: 20 $ p.p. + 5$ for car (paid once, for up to 7 days)
Camping at Picnic Site: 25$ p.p.p.n → Prebooking at Bulawayo recommended, but don't worry if you do not get the one that you wanted
Hwange Masuma Dam @ Hwange S18 43.841 E26 16.848 Lookout is very nice and comfortable, close to waterhole → up to 300 Elefants in the evening at the waterhole
Hot Showers, Clean Toilets
Camp can be shared comfortably with 3 parties → i.e. Ask if someone has booked, or let others share with you
Hwange Deteema Dam @ Hwange S18 40.428 E26 08.803 More Wilderness Feeling (no gate, fence with big gaps)
Ablutions not working, no water
Had a very nice evening with Lions and elephant
Vic Falls Vic Falls Rest Camp S17 55.601 E25 50.339 10$ p.p.p.n + 8$ per car per night
Very Expensive, but no check of number of nights stayed when you leave
Nice camp with good ablutions and lawn
In the middle of town, good security
Including restaurant with slow internet access (10$ for voucher)
Recommended: High Tea at Vic Falls Hotel is an impressive event (25$ for 2 people)
Vic Falls Vic Falls National Park
Entry: 240 Rand / 25€ / 30 $ for single entry p.p. Day ticket
Take food and drinks if you want to see morning and evening light
Evening light from 3 to 5 pm is best for pictures (rainbows) and nearly no visitors after 4 pm
Border in Kazungula Border Crossing to Botswana
Fastest Crossing so far → 20 min for both sides

Tabelle 6: Botswana

Botswana 1€ = 8.8 Pula September 2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments

Border in Kazungula Border Crossing
fast, efficient, correct → both sides in 20 minutes
Need to pay 120 Pula / 140 Rand if first time within 3 month in Botswana (Road, Insurance, …)
Kasana Chobe Safara Lodge S17 48.490 E25 08.737 140 Pula for 2 people,
230 Pula p.p for 3 hour boat cruise, very much recommended, includes park fee
Small camp sites close to each other. Good ablutions.
Places are distributed at check in. Nice are 1,2, 13, 14
Chobe National Park Ihaha Camp
Ihaha Camp has free space. This can be booked at the gate.
Day entry at sedudu gate: 120 Pula p.p., 50 pula per vehicle
Kasane Senyati Camp S17 52.324 E25 14.127 100 Pula p.p.p.n. Highly recommended. Private toilet/shower/kitchen house. → very nice atmosphere
Waterhole with elephants and leopard (light at night)
Possible to do Chobe N.P and Boat cruise from here (30 min drive)

Tabelle 7: Namibia

Namibia 9.6 N$ = 1€
(Rand accepted)
October 2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments

Border in Ngombe Border Crossing
Fast and efficient. Carnet de passage doesn't need to be stamped due to toll union with SA and Botswana.
Katimo Mulilo Zambezi Lodge S17 29.175 E24 17.113 80 N$ p.p.p.n. Camping at river is OK, but not great.
Fast internet (1 Hr 90N$)
ATM in town available
Caprivi Strip Nambwe 4x4 camp S17 52.512 E23 19.098 100N$ p.p.p.n Beatiful campsite at Kavango river.
6 big camps, seperate from each other.
Clean ablutions with solar heated water
Very recommended, Nice game drive. Saw many Elephant and a Leopard !!
Mudumu N.P. Nakatwa Camp Nr. 3 S18 10.833 E23 27.144 170 N$ for 2 night, 2 people, including car and park entrance
No infrastructure, but very beautiful location at river with lots of wildlife visiting day and night.
Caprivi Strip Kwando Camp S18 02.569 E23 19.306 80N$ p.p.p.n Campsite is OK, but space is in the back.
Boat cruise is NOT recommended (240 N$ P.P)
Caprivi Strip Ngepi Camp S18 06.960 E21 40.134 65N$ p.p.p.n Beautiful campsite at okavango river. Take camp at river.
Reservation (1 or 2 days in advace) is recommended.
Swimmingpool in cage in river. Very nice bar, Sun deck.
The toilets and showers are special. You have to see for yourself
Grootfontein Roys Camp S19 13.986 E18 29.904 75N$ p.p.p.n Recommended Campsite at farm with very good menu (140N$p.p)
Fancy, rustic decoration. Very friendly and helpful staff.
Grashoek Living Museum / San Community S19 14.748 E19 14.370 San community offering interesting activities.
Bush walk (2 hr) 150 N$p.p, Overnight trip into bush with San group (250N$p.p).
Leave car at house of guide. We did the overnight trip with sleeping under stars at camp fire. Really interesting.
I was sceptic before, but can really recommend it. The two old San were really knowledgeable.
Ondangwa Ondangwa Rest Camp S17 54.730 E15 58.493 Camping 60 N$p.p.p.n. Small and only place in town.
Small lake, good restaurant, little noisy
OK, if you need something in this area.
Opuwo Opuwo country hotel S18 02.953 E13 49.945 Campimg 81N$ p.p.p.n. Overlooking the valley below. Camping on gras. Good ablutions.
Use the great „infinity edge pool“ at the hotel
Good bar and restaurant. Very nice menu for 185N$p.p.
Wireless Internet: 50N$ for two hours
Epupa Falls Epupa Falls Campsite S17 00.117 E13 14.725 Closest Camp to falls. 60 N$ p.p.p.n Nice shady campsite at kunene river.
Camp with Brai area, sink and water. Clean ablutions. Nice bar overlooking Kunene.
This camp has made great progress over the last 7 years. Same private owner as Syncro camp at Marienfluss.
Opuwo Himba Village S17 57.335 E13 51.407 English speaking Guide Moses, can be found at O.K. Groceries shop. 150 N$ p.p.
Food presents for Himba: 200 N$ (sugar, maize meal, bread, tobacco)
Make sure your guide is OK and not drinking alcohol.
Especially evening and early morning was nice with people singing and chatting at fire
Kaokoveld Bush Camp on way to Purros
Caming is no proplem, even when Himba villages close by. Nobody disturbs you.
The wind stops after sunset

Kaoko rums S17 39.950 E12 52.672 2 km further south you will find nicer spots.
We stopped here because our car broke down at very bad road shortly before Otjitanda (steep downhill with steps, than steep uphill with rocks)

Kaoko palm S18 14.251 E13 14.850 Very nice camp with palm trees, shade, water, many birds
In Hoarusib river bed. Do not use in summer due to possibility of flash floods.

Kaoko oryx horn S18 16.425 E12 39.014 Picnic Place at Khumib river. This would also make a good camp

Kaoko Khumib S18 29.226 E12 45.030 Big tree at Khumib river bed. Nice scenery. Lots of firewood.
Kaokoveld Purros Community Campsite S18 43.926 E12 56.501 60N$ p.p.p.n, 20 N$ Firewood. Extremly beautiful camp with old trees,
Own sink, Hot showers and toilet hidden in shady cave under tree.
All camps are far apart and well integrated into landscape.
Highly recommended. We chose camp nr. 6
Sesfontein Khowarib Schlucht Community Camp S19 15.929 E13 53.028 60N$ p.p.p.n Camp Nr 1 has most beautiful view over gorge. Very nice place with friendly staff. Own toilet, shower, cooking house. Camps are far apart
Kamanjab Cheetah Farm S19 35.528 E15 03.994 50N$ p.p.p.n Camping, 100N$p.p cheetah tour. Basic campsite but OK. Camp 10 has some gras. Nice bar
We liked the cheetah safari: a) 2 tame cheetahs to hug b) Feeding of wild cheetahs is good for pictures
Can get crowded with tours and overlanders
Windhoek Puccini house S22 34.146 E17 04.638 450 N$ per double room incl. bath
Good breakfast included
Rooms are OK but to expensive for what you get.
Very good security for car
Nice patio to relax, quiet place, washing machine
Close to „NICE-restaurant“ with menue for 230 N$ → Very good. Our recommendation for a special treat
Windhoek Chameleon Backpackers S22 34.442 E17 04.880 250 N$ for room with shared bath
300 N$ for room with private bath
No camping with roof tent. Only with ground tent and no car.
Nicely decorated rooms. Very good and clean ablutions. Basic breakfast included.
Nice bar with small pool. Quiet after 10 P.m
Fast internet with vouchers
Secure parking for car.
Note: We also checked Arebush, but didn't like it (120N$p.p.p.n camping)
Spitzkoppe Community camp S21 50.020 E15 11.088 50N$p.p.p.n + 10 N$ for car. Very beautiful place. Highly recommended.
You need to bring everything incl water, food and firewood.
Only trash bin available as infrastructure
Camp sites far apart.
Brandberg White Lady Lodge S21 01.011 E14 41.108 70 N$ p.p.p.n + 20 N$ for car. Spaceous campsites. Use bar and restaurant at lodge
White lady is a nice 2,5km walk. 25 N$ p.p. But no need to go if you have been to Twyfelfontein or Tsodilo hills.
Ruancana Hippo Pool Community Camp S17 24.393 E14 13.020 50 N$ p.p.p.n Nice camp at river. Hot showers with solar

Tabelle 8: Angola

Angola 1 € = 121 Kwanza November 2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
Border in Omahenene / Couleque Border Crossing
Angola VISA: 30 days VISA obtained trough VISA Service in Berlin and sent to Windhoek. Obtaining VISA in Pretoria (South Africa) did not work.
Invitation letter from Angolan company required for ordinary Visa. We got an invitation letter through an Angolan business partner of my employer. Also need a copy of the invitation at immigration.
Angola Visa in 2nd Passport and Namibia exit stamp in 1st Passport caused problems at Angola Border. The solution was to staple both passports together.
Car was controlled by police (wanted to look into all boxes etc.)
No aditional Fees (like road tax, bribes etc.)
Kunene River Wild Camp Kunene S16 49.759 E14 52.964 Nice Place on the river bank. People from next village are friendly and come for short visit. Enough Firewood available. About two hours from border and 30 km to Xangango
Lubango La Saletta S14 52.983 E13 27.519 Katholic Mission in Lubango outscurts. Very friendly and welcomming. Camp in compound or use room. Clean showers and toilet.
Free, but donations accepted. Thanks to Kim and Tanja for the waypoint.
Flamingo River south of Namibe Flaming Lodge S15 34.148 E12 01.290 Very relaxed place at the mouth of Flamingo River on the atlantic with amazing scenery. Cool management and bar with great fun and atmosphere. Surrounding sandstone Canyons, Fossil wall and beach walks, beach driving.
Rustic Campsite with kitchen, hot shower, compressor available (reduce your tire pressure before you get to the dunes!!!)
20 $ p.p.p.n
Arco Area Wild Camp Sandstone S15 47.497 E12 07.284 Beautiful Bush Camp in desert close to lake and small village with nice sandstone cliffs. Thanks to Kim and Tanja for the waypoint.
Bentiaba Lighthouse Picnic Spot S14 12.855 E12 20.138 nice cliffs over atlantic, next to a lighthouse.
Also good for camping if the wind is not strong.
Binga Bay Wild Camp Binga Viewpoint S13 20.716 E12 38.797 Beautiful Bush Camp on Hill above Binga Bay. We saw whales and beautiful sunset. Fishermen friendly and kept distance. Getting there: 45 min drive from main road on offroaf track. 12 km in 1st and 2nd gear. Used low range for some rough and steep parts on way back.
Benguela Nancy's Guesthouse S12 34.576 E13 24.215 Camp in front yard and use shared bathroom (warm shower). Nice sitting area in garden and close to beach and restaurants. Free laundry machine usage.
10 $ p.p.p.n
Lobito Shoprite on the main road well stocked but expensive
Waterfalls in Binga Waterfall S10 59.303 E14 05.501 impressive waterfalls, easy to reach, well worth the detour
South of Sumbe Beach Camp S11 17.232 E13 49.784 Wide sand beach with palm trees. Need to look around for a place with little rubish. We asked the Chinese building team to cross through their building site.
Kwanza River Mouth Wild Camp opposite Kwanza River Lodge S9 20.958 E13 09.219 Scenic place at mouth of Kwanza River. Good swimming in river. We stayed 2 days.
Just opposite Kwanza River Lodge, where we got the description from Bruce (manager)
Going South, take the 1st dirt road to the right after the pay bridge. Choose between palms, sand beach and riverside.
Luanda Club Naval S8 47.936 E13 13.433 Camping at parking lot of Yacht Club for free. Shower and toilets in building. We drove into Luanda on a weekend which reduced the traffic jams a lot. Easy to walk to Marginal and fort for sightseeing. Next door is the Club Nautico that allows also for camping.
North of Luanda Bay of Wrecks S8 38.811 E13 24.849 Intresting place to visit. Possible to camp. Small huts selling beer.
Mussera Beach Camp S7 34.742 E13 00.271 Very nice and relaxed beach camp. Good swimming and some fishermen selling fish in the morning. Thanks to Kim and Tanja for the recommendation !!!
N'zeto Mission S7 14.014 E12 52.505 Cool place with Father Emilio (polish). They invited us for dinner and lots of spirits. Camped in the big garden and used shower and toilet in the house. Had a great time there. Tip: Invite Emilio for a cold beer when you arrive. Thanks to Steffen and Steffi for the waypoint !!
Mbanza Congo Mission S6 15.936 E14 14.746 Mission in center of town opposite the pink coloured Hotel Congo. Camped in compound and had private bathroom in former sisters quarters.

Tabelle 9: DRC RC

Kongo (DRC and RC) 1$ = 980 Fr (DRC) November 2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan

1 € = 656 CFA (RC)

Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
Border in Luvo Border Crossing
DRC VISA: 30 days VISA obtained trough VISA Service in Berlin and sent to Windhoek. Border Crossing was relaxed and correct on bith sides.
Songololo katholic Mission S5 42.139 E14 02.424 OK place to camp. Pit toilet, no shower, free
Ferry Kinshasa to Brazzaville Ferry Crossing
- The car ferry is not working/running at the moment (Nov. 2010)
- Cars are transported with the standard ferry for pedestrians and goods. This ferry stops at a staircase in Brazza. After unloading one of the three pontons is removed from the rest of the boat and goes to the unloading point for cars.
- We paid 150 US $ for car and driver + 10 US $ for additional person. The price was not negotiable (tried my best, but was not successful)
- No further costs or hassle with customs, immigration, loading etc. One of the officials of the ferry company accompanied us through the whole process which was efficient.
- The decision about cost and acceptance of the car for transport is done by the boss of the ferry company at the 2nd level in the main building at the harbor (behind the guarded gate on the left side)
Road to Kinshasa Cross DRC
- Good tar road from Songololo to Kinshasa (5 hours to ferry, going slow)
- 2 toll gates, payed 4500 Kinshasa Franc (about 5 Dollar)
- all of the police stops waved us through, no hassle, people very friendly (at least up to harbor entrance)
Brazzaville Hippocampe S4 16.403 E15 16.674 Free camping in Hotel parking lot. Very good restaurant and private toilet/shower. Olivier is very friendly and helpful. Great place. We stayed 5 days. Check the „golden book“ at the restaurant where travellers leave their latest comments on camps, roads and border crossings.
Brazzaville Cyber Cafe S4 16.507 E15 17.083 Internet Cafe with good bandwith and wireless. No sign outside. Go into building and ask.
Brazzaville Project de protection Gorille (PPG) S4 15.983 E15 14.963 Booking Office close to the airport (on dirtroad) for gorilla reserve.
- Visit orphan gorilla kids 30€ p.p
- Double Room 45€ (camping not possible)
- Guide for walk to mountain 20€ per group
- Park Entrance fee 25€ p.p.
- further activities possible. Just discuss with the helpful staff
Lekoni Nationalpark - Lesio Louna Wildlife Reserve PPG Headquarter (Iboubikro) S3 16.255 E15 28.337 Four Gorilla Orphans ca be visited at feeding time. You are separated from Gorillas by a river , about 10 m wide. Duration is 30 min. But they allowed me to go twice for one payment.
Bathing at Lac Bleu is nice and for free.
Walk with guide in the early morning was nice. Saw Sitatunga, monkeys and tracks of Hippo etc.
Fully equipped kitchen available (bring your food) Adjacent mosquito net covererd dining room. Bed room clean, with mosquito net. Ablutions OK. Many mosquitos and Tse Tse flies. Bring repellent and long cloths.
Ngo Hotel Ngo S2 29.032 E15 45.054 Allowed us to camp in fenced car park in front of the hotel for free (donation accepted). Use of toilet, no shower. Cooler climate at 650m elevation. Some noise from the road.
Okoyo Company Fichtner – Michelle (French Boss) S1 28.466 E15 04.004 Michelle provided us with a room with AC, Food, Drinks and interesting company. Very nice and helpful person who likes to help travellers and enjoys company since he is the only white person in the area. Highly recommended. Thanks to Steffen and Steffi for the address. We have even seen your thanks letter and pictures.

Tabelle 10: Gabon

Gabon 1 € = 656 CFA November 2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
Road Okoyo to Lekoni (Gabon) Road RC Customs
S1 35.004 E14 57.144
RC Immigration
S1 39.737 E14 32.110
The road from Okoko to the Gabonese Border is hard sand. This is OK even in the rainy season. The problem for our LandRover was the track that is driven by many road construction trucks.
- For the first 60 km after Okoyo this leads to constant contact of the differential with the sand. For long passages we where pushing sand with the landy chasis.Sometimes you can get with one side out of the track, but that doesn't work always. We had to use our shovel three times. All in all a lot of work, but not a real problem.
- For the next 60 km to the border the road is still sandy, but much less trucks. Therefore much easier to drive.
- The custom and immigration checkpoints are distributed over 30 km. Al friendly and easy going.
- As soon as you reach Gabon there is perfect tar road up to Franceville.
Border Gabon Border Gabon Immigration
S1 35.050 E14 15.208
Gabon Customs
S1 34.686 E14 12.336
Immigration is in lekoni, next to the Hotel Lekoni on the main road to Franceville.. Friendly and efficient service.
Customs is 10 km further in the direction of Franceville. Friendly, no problems. (Bring your swiss knife/leatherman. We got locked in the building when the wind closed the door)
Lekoni Hotel Lekoni S1 35.115 E14 15.196 We camped in the garden. Quiet, Expensive. Payed 10.000CFA for usage of the bathroom. I would recomend to bush camp at the Lekoni Canyon
Lekoni Lekoni Canyon S1 38.531 E14 17.381 Well worth to stop and have a look. 5 km from the mainroad, signposted. Makes also for a good Bush Camp.
Road franceville to Lambarene Bussh Camp Mountain S1 16.780 E13 01.155 Very Nice bushcamp in an old Gravel Pit, away from the road. Overlooking the rainforest below. No mud and good views.

Bush Lope National Park S0 09.132 E11 44.492 Bush Camp Lope National Park in an old gravel Pit, away from the road. The area here is with many meadows and patches of rainforest. Nice views around and good place to camp

Bush gabon River S0 06.856 E11 19.959 Picknick Spot that would also make a good bush camp. Overlooking the river below.

Bush Didi Camp S0 07.887 E10 47.803 Here we met Didi with his Motorbike and found a place at the river. Good for swimming. A little noisy at night when the train passes by. Close to village but no problems during the two nights we spent here. Security from the train compan checked if we are fine.
Lambarene Katholic Mission S0 41.492 E10 13.692 Very nice camp on lawn, with good shower and toilet.2500 CFA p.p.p.n, Very peaceful on weekend. During the week there are small kids in kindergarden/school. Good place to stay. We met here the Raubach Family and Ian&Ruth. Spend 2 nights with Rösti and Pasta :-)
Lambarene Albert Schweitzer Hospital
Nice Museum (500CFA).Definitely worth seeing !!
The lady overlooking the museum was completely unmotivated, unfriendly and wouldn't move from here chair. We had to go a second time because we missed the old hospital area at the first time. Make sure you see: Museum, Grave, Hospital.
Libreville Maison Libermann N0 24.223 E9 26.954 You can camp. But if you want a shower you need to book a room. Room with Fan: 15.000CFA per night.
Wireless Internet is available (most times) for free.Room is OK with moskito net.
The MISSION EMILIE DE VILLENEUVE on the other side of the road didn't want to take us, since the rented the bathrooms to a school.
Libreville VISA ATM N0 23.316 E9 26.776 The BICIG bank has ATM machines that accept Visa. There is one inside the big ssupermarket Mbolo (see T4A) and another one going further south → see coordinate
Libreville Insurance issuing Carte Rose N0 24.301 E9 26.236 Insurance that provided carte rose for 3 month. About 38.000 CFA. Valid for Gabon, Kameroon, Tschad, Kongo
Road from Libreville to Ayeme to Zangue to Oyem Nice Rainforest Track
Alternative to the TAR road (Tar Road has some pot holes for about 100km after Libfevielle, but not to bad).
This is a good track through very nice parts of rainforest. The road is maintained and has good wood bridges. Some longer stretches where water draws some channels, but no problem, just slower. We encountered onlly one bridge with missing planks, and 2 short stretches with deep mud. This track takes definitely longer than the Tar road but offers good opportunities for bush camping and seeing the forest. Friendl people and many villages.

Bush Guinea N0 59.671 E10 56.236 Not the best of all camps but we couldn't find anything for 40 km (coming from direction Libreville). Next morning we saw some nicer camps on the next 20 km.
This camp is on a short dead end track, surounded by thick forest. You can't see out and it is muddy. But the sounds at night are great.
Oyem Oyem Mission (katholic) N1 35.782 E11 34.854 Katholic Mission. Very Friendly with nice singing. Rooms are apartment sized, with kitchen, bedroom and living room. Not very clean but OK. 14.000 CFA for double room. Very quiet.

Tabelle 11: Cameroon

Cameroon 1 € = 656 CFA 'December 2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
Yaounde Benediktins Mission N3 54.926 E11 29.875 Benedictins offering camping and rooms. Room with balcony overlooking the city on Mount Febe. 17.000 per double room including meals. Shared bathroom with hot shower.
Kribi Terra Plage N2 54.350 E9 54.122 Best place for camping in Kribi. 5000 CFA for camping on lawn next to the beach. Good restaurant and nice for swimming. Bathroom of a bungalow is used. If you need a change to the reataurant: there is a friendly Rasta guy named Piere just 800m down the beach (south) who offers dinner on a small romantic beach spot.
Grand Batanga Etoile de Mer N2 51.668 E9 53.218 Run by Andre (Belgian). Friendly place. Camping (5000 CFA) on grass near beach. Clean ablutions. Andre cooks very well. We had starter, crevettes, beer, coffee, rum altogether for 14.000 CFA. Good value.
Ebodje Ebodje Eco Tourism Camp N2 33.999 E9 49.442 Very friendly village with beautiful beaches. Highly recommended.
Meals available (2500 CFA p.p for dinner), Camping (2000 CFA), Rooms (3000 CFA p.p.p.n). Water for bucket shower provided, Long drop toilet.
Community run project offering many activities.
- We went out at night with a guide to look for turtles that lay eggs on the beach. (5000CFA p.p.). We didn't find them but nevertheless it was worth the try.
- We went to the river with a pirogue (small shaky kanu). Very Nice trip but you will get wet on the drive across the ocean. We drowned our binoculars. (5000 CFA p.p, 2 hours)
Douala Katholic Mission N4 03.266 E9 41.833 Room with AC and privat shower. Shared toilet. Pool and nice sitting area. Save Parking. Located in the town centre. Quiet. Good Value. 7000 CFA p.p.p.n
Buea Presbyterian Mission N4 09.684 E9 13.975 Camping for 1000 CFA p.p.p.n. On lawn. Shared clean bathrooms. Fast Imternet for 150 CFA per hour. Shared kitchen can be used. On the down side: depending on wind direction you smell laterine on the camp lawn.
Limbe 6 Mile Beach N4 00.769 E9 07.110 Camping 2000 CFA p.p.p.n. Camping on lawn next to beach and oil refinery. Toilets and showers neglected. Looks disappointing at first sight, but ok to stay. There is not much great camping in Limbe.
Bamenda Prebyterian Church N5 58.048 E10 09.157 Camping (2500 p.p.p.n) on big lawn under trees, but a little difficult to find a flat area. You get a key to room with clean shower and toilet. Friendly and helpful staff. Interesting Administrator/Manager to discuss politics. Good place to stay before and after visiting ring road.
Wum Lake Wum (Bush Camp) N6 24.469 E10 03.129 Bush camp at crater lake visitor area. The place is visited by cows and some locals.but quiet after sunset. Chief of village comes to greet you and does his spiritual ceremony at the lake. Ask him for permission to stay.
Ring Road Bafut Palace
Menchum Falls
N6 05.329 E10 06.787
N6 18.521 E10 00.965
We took the little ring road which leads from Bamenda via We to Fundong and back on good tar to Bamenda. This is a nice 2 day trip. Its definitely worth it for the beautiful scenery.
- Bafut palace is an intresting visit. Good museum and palace area. Someone of the family of the Fon (king) will guide you and can answer all the questions. 10.000CFA for 2 people including museum, guide, photos, …
- Menchum Falls is a nice place to stop and have a look.
- Road from We to Foundong is only used by motorbikes. This is a little rough in places for cars but very scenic !!!
Mamfe Data Hotel N5 45.078 E9 19.267 Camp in the car park (5000 CFA per tent after bargaining) on some small lawn. You get a key for a room with shower and toilet. Be careful with the lightswitch. You are directly exposed to 220V with bare feet on wet floor. Good restaurant but noisy on weekends.
Ekok Mamfe Road

We crossed beginning of January in the dry season. The road is maintained and easy going. It took 2 hours including some nice picture stops.The road from Bamenda to Mamfe is more difficult (steep decents, wet patches, potholes) but also more scenic. The Chinese are working on it....

Tabelle 12: Nigeria

Nigeria 1 € =200 Neira 03.01 – 09.01.2011 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
Ikom St. Peter Katholic Church N5 58.625 E8 43.507 Very nice padres. We had a room with Satelite TV, fan and private bathroom. They provided lunch and dinner including beer. Realy nice conversations. No defined fee, but donation accepted. Pater Immanuel called a money changer for us to change CFA to Neira at good rate.
Ikom Lisbon Hotel N5 57.625 E8 43.582 Not really an alternative in Ikom. They requested 2000 Neira for camping on concrete car park and key to room. We didn't like the manager and found it overpriced.
Drill Ranch
N6 17.956 E8 59.889 Monkey rehabilitation center. They have Drills (kind of coloured baboon), Chimpanzees in large, natural fenced habitat. We could also see a baby Gorilla. The canopy walkway is spectatcular, especially since you are alone with the knowledgeable guide. Nice pool for swimming close by. Friendly staff and beautiful rainforest surrounding. Two options for camping:
1. Camp at ranch for 2000 Neira p.p.p.n including toilet and shower
2. Overland Camp site with no facilities for 750 Neira p.p.p.n (N6 17.984 E9 00.246)
Additional fees: 1000 Neira for guide per group plus 250 Neira p.p. community fee.
All in all we paid 6000 Neira for the full program for two people and 2 nights on overland camp. Not cheap but very well worth a visit.
Makurdi Dolphin Court N7 45.767 E8 33.625 Camping for 1000 Neira after haggling. You can use toilet at bar and water tap behind hotel for showering. Camp at car park. Shady garden with little huts. OK place.
Abudja Sheraton Hotel N9 03.891 E7 28.981 Camping not free any more. You pay 2500 Neira p.p for 5 nights (minimum expected stay). Camping in backyard behind dog shelter. Very clean toilet and hot showers at squash court. Register at fitness center not at hotel.. Security guides will show you around.
Abudja Money Changers
Opposite of the Sheraton Hotel you find Haussa people waiting under umbrellas. They change money at very good rates. Make sure you have big bills (100$ notes or 100Euro notes). We didn't use our credit card in Nigeria to avoid scams.
Jebba Flamingo Guesthouse N9 07.067 E4 49.280 Not great but clean and simple. We camped at fenced car park and paid 1000 Neira for room with bucket shower and toilet. Room was rented out to other guest after we went to bed :-). Close to road with lots of trucks. Use ear plugs.
Abeokuta Golf Resort N7 06.665 E3 22.133 Very peaceful place. 5$ p.p.p.n. You can choose your overnight place from close to lake to camping on golf lawn. This place is still under construction, but has clean toilets and showers, cold beer and no noise. It is not very easy to find but well worth the effort.
Roads and Police in Nigerai

We didn't find Nigeria as bad as most people told us. Nevertheless the driving is stressful and dangerous. On the other hand people were very nice. Many police stops. They all ask for a gift, but we got through without paying a single bribe by being polite, friendly, humourous. Beeing funny is difficult after the 10th stop, but pays out. The main issue in Nigeria is the crazy traffic with lots of trucks and petrol tankers that pull out just in front of you to avoid one of the countless potholes. This is mainly true for the road from Abeokuta to Abudja. Many police/customs/immigration stops between Abeokuta and Mekro border. The road from Abudja to Ikom is fine and easy going.

Countless petrol stations, but only every 10th has diesel. Diesel is 120 Neira per liter. Petrol is 65 Neira per liter.

Tabelle 13: Benin and Togo

Benin and 1 € = 656 CFA 10.01 – 19.01.2010 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan
19.01 – 30.01.2010 www.blackcontinent.de

Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
Abomey Chez Monique N7 11.855 E1 58.826 Campingg for 2500 CFA p.p.p.n. Big and busy place under trees with loads of handcraft masks and fetiches. Many kids and workers around. Can be noisy and may lack water
Grand Popo Auberge Grand Popo N6 16.754 E1 49.820 2000 CFA p.p.p.n. Relaxed place with good music and nice restaurant/bar. Camp on big lawn under trees. Beach is not for swimming. Shower and toilet is acceptable.
Cotonou (close to) Jardin Helvetica N6 20.699 E2 16.050 2000 CFA p.p.p.n. Good place at the beach road from Ouidah to Cotonou. You can camp in the garden or at the beach. Clean toilets and showers. Good restaurant.Very friendly owner. From here it is less than 30 min to Cotonou and you are at a quiet spot with good swimming. They have nice umbrellas and matresses at the beach to relax.

Lome Chez Alice N6 09.983 E1 20.474 1000 CFA p.p.p.n. Difficult to say … PRO: Good restaurant with Schnitzel and Rösti. Good life music on Wednesdays. Free WIFI. Alice is an intresting person to meet → We stayed 5 nights since we met very nice people. CON: 1 toilet and shower in the same room, not very clean. Very hot on the campground. Forget about the beach.
Kpalime Auberge Nectar N6 57.211 E0 34.690 2500 CFA p.p.p.n. Good and quiet place. You get a key to a room to use the bath. Very clean and good shower. From here it is worth to take a guide for the butterfly tour. The tour includes coffee plantations, a small waterfall and the surrounding. They catch some butterflies with a net for you, which are released afterwards. → 5000 CFA p.p for 4 hour tour incl. pictures etc.
Atakpame → Bena Eteka Dja N7 31.734 E0 54.381 On the road from Atakpame to Badou after 25 km you reach Bena where Eteka Dja is signposted on the road. 14 Germans have set up this spiritual center including hospital, school and orphanage. They have a vegetarian restaurant, rooms, cean shared bathrooms and camping possibilities. Nice area and cooler nights at 750m above sea level. The experience is best if you know German and are open to some spirituality. But even if this is not what you are looking for you will have a good time there. We stayed 3 nights. Camping fee on donation base.
Dapong Auberge Campement N10 51.615 E0 12.265 3000 CFA p.p.p.n Camping unscenic behind the hotel, but they have a nice garden and restaurant. Toilet and shower is acceptable.

Marie Antoinette N9 30.595 E1 12.539 Camping for 2000 CFA p.p.p.n. at the side of the national road. Clean facilities. Restaurant with free WiFi by same owner 500 meters down the road. Unfortunately security guard listens to radio the whole night (asking him to turn the volume down will not help), so sleeping is hardly possible.

The tar road in the north of Togo has many potholes and lots of truck traffic (especially the 20 km south of Dapaong). Slow but OK to drive. No crazy truck drivers as in Nigeria.

Tabelle 14: Burkina Faso

Burkina Faso 1 € = 656 CFA 30.01-11.02.2011 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
Ouagadougou OK-Inn N12 20.114 W1 30.830 Free Camping, Free Wifi and pool usage. Camping is at the remainders of a Mini Golf court under some small trees. They expect that you use the restaurant from time to time. The ChateauBriand for 6000 CFA is great !!!
Mare des Crocodiles
N12 03.939 W2 13.578 On the way from Ouaga to Bobo this is a strange/intresting stop. In a lake close to the village there are hundreds of sacred crocodiles. Guides will pull one out at the tail for you to touch and make it move with the help of some chicken leftovers on a string. We payed 1500 CFA p.p (inclucing chicken, picture taking, etc.)
Bobo Dioulasso La Pacha
2500 p.p.p.n for Camping. Good showers and long drop toilet. Great Pizza. Camping under shady mango tree. Noisy truck traffic. For quiet sleep Casa Africa is the better option.
Bobo Dioulasso Casa Africa N11 10.155 W4 18.704 1500 p.p.p.n. Camping in small but nice garden. Basic facilities. Food available. Authentic atmosphere with lots of locals to chat and make business. Much more quiet at night than La Pacha but a bit further off center.
Bobo Dioulasso Mosque & old town
It is definitely worth to visit the mosque (1000CFA p.p). You get a good tour with a lot of details and you can see everything including roof. This is much more intresting than the visit of the mosque in Djenne where you have to pay 5000 CFA p.p. and only get a 10 min „tour“.
We had a guide for a visit of the old town. He showed us some curio shops but also a lot of interesting places and houses. We payed the guide 4000 CFA for 3 hours.
Tengrela (close to Banfora) Farafina Campement N10 39.136 W4 49.519 1500 p.p.p.n. Camping in nice compound in the middle of the village. Very basic shower and toilets. Good atmosphere and very friendly owners (French+Burkinabe). You can take good lessons for Balafone, Djembe and Kora. Solo – the teacher and camp owner - charges 2000 CFA per hour. The lake with hippos is close and also a nice sunset trip.
Sindou Soutrala Campement N10 39.459 W5 09.644 1500 p.p.p.n. Very relaxed camping under shady mango trees with hammocks. Food is good. Camp is in walking distance to Sindou peaks.

Tabelle 15: Mali

Mali 1 € = 656 CFA 11.02.-07.03.2011 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments

Border Crossing
One of the fastest and most relaxed border crossings so far. We were offered tea and food from the nice border officials.
San Hotel Teria N13 17.177 W4 53.580 Camping on the hotel parking lot for 2000 CFA p.p.p.n. OK, but bush camping may be the better alternative.
Djenne Campement Houber N13 54.448 W4 33.354 Camping for 2500 p.p.p.n inside the compound. Clean toilets and showers. Best place for camping in the middle of Djenne. Chez Baba (N13 54.355 W4 33.275) looks run down, but is the only place to go if you want to have a beer.
Mopti Campement N14 29.828 W4 11.870 Camping for 2500 p.p.p.n. You get a key to a room for shower and toilet use. This place is noisy and not nice, but the only place we found for camping. Hotel „Y a Pas de Probleme“ looks very nice, but you have to park your car at the roadside and take a room.
Sevare Repose de Dogon N14 31.632 W4 05.873 Camping for 2500 p.p.p.n Quiet and shady places to sit. Good shower and toilets.Friendly people and good infrastructure for getting reorganized after a trip into Dogon country (electricity, washing, …).
Bandiagara Togona Hotel N14 21.482 W3 38.559 Camping for 2500 p.p.p.n 4 km out of town. OK place with big garden to camp. Many moskitos though.
5 day tour into Dogon Country (Falaise de Bandiagara) Guide Association N14 21.013 W3 36.691 We booked our tour into dogon country with the Guide Association in Bandiagara. Dogon Guide with good english, french and dogon. All food, tourist tax, hotel fees included for 20.000 CFA p.p.p.d. The guide and tour was very good. He knows the area and culture extremly well and is known by many villagers, He always made sure we are happy and constantly adapted plans to our wishes and needs. We can highly recommend Mamadou. You can contact him directly: (+223) 79376968 www.guidedogon.niloo.fr, guide_madou_dogon@yahoo.fr. He runs his own campement (N14 13.454 W3 29.060) in Doundouro (at the bottom of the falaise at Begnimato)
Teriya Bugu Teriya Bugu N13 12.615 W5 31.810 Camping for 3000 CFA p.p.p.n. Make sure you camp at the Bani river bank. They first try to send you to the dusty playground. Good Swimmingpool and very green surroundings with lots of animals. Showers and toilets not very clean.
Bamako Sleeping Camel N12 37.534 W7 59.276 Camping for 3000 p.p.p.n close to the center, just before the Niger bridge. Quiet surrounding, relaxed place, nice bar. Free Wifi. Shady parking for car. We liked the atmosphere.
Bafing Makhana Bush Camp (Furt Camp) N12 45.312 W10 12.710 There is now a new tar road from Kita to the border town of Saraya in Senegal (signposted). The road stops at the Bafing river (south of the lake) because currently the bridge is not finished. There is a place where you can cross the wide river in the dry season. We just camped at the crossing place and did the river crossing in the morning. The place is OK to camp. People are friendly and leave before darkness falls.

Tabelle 16: Senegal Gambia

Senegal 1 € = 656 CFA 07.03. – 30.03.2011 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan
Gambia 1 € = 38 Dalasi 12.03. - 17.03.2011 www.blackcontinent.de

Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
South Senegal

Border Crossing
Kenieba to Seraya: Most cool immigration in West Africa so far. Nice man, fast and relaxed. Some discussions with Customs in Seraya to avoid the stamp in the carnet and the 48 hour rule to go to Dakar (see VISA section)
Kedougou Le Saninke N12 32.925 W12 10.640 Camping in Hotel parking lot for 2500 CFA p.p.p.n. Not recommended. Noisy generator and run down shower and toilet. Better go straight to Dindefelo or bush camp on the way.(Le Bedik looks nice but they don't allow camping)
Dindefelo Villageois Campement N12 22.748 W12 19.446 Camping for 2500 CFA p.p.p.n under the shady tree. Simple but clean showers and toilets. Place is OK. The waterfall and walking tours in the area are great.
National Park Niokolo Koba Wassadou Campement N13 20.927 W13 22.588 Camping for 2700 CFA p.p.p.n + 300 CFA community tax p.p.p.n + obligatory dinner in restaurant for 5900 CFA p.p. Quite expensive but the food was OK and the camp is very nice. Great river views at the NP boundary.
The boat tour for 3100 CFA p.p is highly recommended. You see hippos very close (they go closer by boat than anyone in east africa – seems the hippos are more relaxed) and lots of unusual birds.

Georgetown Birds Camp N13 32.649 W14 47.648 Camping for 150 Dalasi p.p.p.n after long negotiations. Not recommended ! Owner Marc is very unfriendly and insisted on 300 Dalasi next morning insulting his employees. In the private shower and toilet of the run down hut which was allocated to us, we were surprised by naked/sleeping women and male staff wanting to take a shower in the morning.
Tendaba (close to Soma) Tendaba Lodge N13 26.362 W15 48.534 Camping for 250 Dalasi p.p.p.n Nice place with shady camping spot at the river, clean toilets and showers. Nice bar. Boat tour for 200 Dalasi p.p. into the mangrove creeks of Gambia river is worth it, lots of birds.
Lamin Lamin Lodge N13 23.598 W16 37.535 Very intersting place to visit. Good restaurant, Try the Oyster meals. Peter (German) is running the camp and we spent hours talking and enjoying the fabulous setting. We camped for free at the restaurant parking lot.
Kartung Boboi Beach Lodge N13 06.853 W16 45.901 Camping for 200 Dalasi p.p.p.n in shady garden. Nice place to relax behind the dunes that block some of the wind coming from the atlantic. Good for swimming, especially nice with the surf / body boards they provide for free.
Sukuta (close to Serekunda) Sukuta Camping N13 25.175 W16 42.938 Camping for 175 Dalasi p.p.p.n. Highly recommended. This is a perfect setup for campers. Very clean, everything works, everything you need is there. Jo and Claudia are very helpful and friendly owners.
Heike took some Djembe lessons with Akassa Cissokho who lives close by and Stefan made fixes at the car with the help of the camp associated garage. Good restaurants in the tourist area nearby and well equipped markets in the area.
North Senegal

Banjul Ferry/Border Crossing
This was a bad day for us. Seems we were really unlucky. 4 hours of waiting at the ferry. Full car search on the south side by drug department and another full car search on the north side by gendarmerie. The border crossing to Senegal was OK. Some hasstle to get the 10 day laisser passer based on our letter from the ambassodor (see VISA section).
Ferry was 5200 CFA. Next time I would consider to take the ferry in Farafenni.
Toubakouta Campement Keur N13 47.275 W16 28.435 Camping for 3000 CFA p.p.p.n. Nothing special and to expensive for what you get. Food is good.
Saly Portudal Ferme du Saly N14 25.611 W16 59.751 Camping for 2500 CFA p.p.p.n. Only campsite in the area. Nothing great but you have only 200 m to the beach. Beach is busy with locals exercising (running, push ups, wrestling). They have a good restaurant at the beach. Ablutions are basic.
Lac Rose Gite du lac N14 50.590 W17 14.171 Lac Rose is not spectatcular but a nice stop. Orange water with dunes on the north side. On the north side there is a new lodge that allows you to camp for 2500 CFA p.p.p.n. Friendly French owner and good food for 3500 CFA. Alternative is to bushcamp in the nice dunes behind the camp. Swimming in the lake is fun. You float like in the dead sea.
St Louis Zebra Bar N15 51.854 W16 30.755 Camping for 3000 CFA p.p.p.n + 600 CFA TAX p.p.p.n + 2000 CFA park entry p.p. (once). Expensive for what you get, but a nice and clean place. Martin and Ursula were friendly. Good place to meet other travellers. Bring your own supplies if you want to safe some budget (Beer = 1500 CFA, Dinner = 5000 CFA)
St Louis Ocean Camp N15 59.822 W16 30.631 Camping for 3000 CFA p.p.p.n. Big sandy place at the ocean. Lots of wind. No shade. The bar at the camp is not operating any more but is a nice spot to sit shielded from the wind. Good place to explore St Louis (Taxi is 100 CFA). We met Dave and Natali here again with their battered Landy after rollover.
Diama Border Crossing
We chose the Diama border over Rosso. Diama is much more simple and relaxed.
- The main issue is car insurance. We where not able to buy insurance in St.Louis since the only company (AMSA, 9047CFA) that sells insurance for Mauretania was out of documents. Nobody at the border to sell insurance when we crossed. (later bought insurance in Nouakhchott for 3000 UQ)
- Border crossing on both sides was smooth. No hasstle, but some costs that are special for Northern Senegal
- We payed: 6000 CFA for the bridge, 3000 UQ Carnet stamping, 2000 UQ p.p. National Park Fee, 500 UQ Community Fee (all with receipt, but I think some of these fees are not required)
- We where stopped by police and asked for insurance but could get away without paying bribes.
- Car was not searched, i.e. hiding some beer bottles seems an option …

Tabelle 17: Mauretania

Mauretania 1 € = 390 Ougiah (UQ) 30.03. - 07.04.2011 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
Nouakchott Auberge Menata N18 05.600 W15 58.640 3000 UQ p.p.p.n. Very nice camp in center of towm. Shady camp spots. Nice area to relax incl. beduin tent. Free WIFI. Hot showers and clean bathrooms. Washing machine. We stayed 3 nights. Recommended place.
Beach Drive to Nouadhibou
N18 58.309 W16 12.339 Bush Camp before 2nd narrow spot on beach drive. Nice place in dunes. Quite sandy due to wind.

N19 09.570 W16 19.289 Bush Camp where we had giant lobsters for dinner (bought in village close by). Hard sandy ground made for good camp.

N19 33.543 W16 24.039 Bush Camp behind dunes at south end of national park (Banc de Arguin). Good wind protection and not visible from track and town (Techot)

N20 28.298 W16 15.279 Bush Camp at le Bidon at north end of park. No chance to hide from the wind.
Nouadhibou Abba Camp N20 54.521 W17 03.210 1500 UQ p.p.p.n. Shadeless and uncharismatic campsite. Very hot shower. OK for one night.

Border Crossing to Marokko N21 19.851 W16 56.762
N21 21.894 W16 57.640
Easy and friendly.
- Between Mauretania and Marokko you should stay on the well visible tracks, due to risk of landmines.
- The exit and entry took 3 to 4 hours with most time spent waiting for the X-ray of the car at the moroccan side

Tabelle 18: Morocco

Morocco 1 € = 11 Dirham 07.04. – 03.05.2011 Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Note: Camping prices noted in morocco are without electricity. There is usually a surplus of around 20 Dirham per day if you need power. We only used it to charge the labtop which was mostly free of charge.
Place / Town Name of Camp / National Park GPS Coordinate Comments
West Sahara

Opposite Daklah Porto Rico N23 28.680 W15 57.120 30 Dirham per car. Very nice spot at the ocean with beduin tents showers and toilets. Very friendly and helpful owner. Free tea and use of kitchen.
Daklah Moussafir N23 45.874 W15 54.430 30 Dirham p.p.p.n + 10 Dirham for hot shower. The place is 5 km from town. Toilets are dirty. Little wind protection by wall. Not recommended. I would prefer the kite surf camps on the road to Daklah next time.
Laayoune Le Bedouin (Belgien Camp) N27 27.722 W13 03.121 30 Dirham p.p.p.n. This was the most windy place ever. First time in 10 month that we could not open the roof tent and slept inside the car. Warm shower with salty water. Beduin tent restaurant. The people were very friendly and the dromedar Tajine and red wine were excellent. Nevertheless the camping is not good if there is wind.


45 km from Sidi Ifri Fort Bou Jerif N29 04.963 W10 19.837 35 Dirham p.p + 35 Dirham per car. Very nice surrounding for walks. The camp itself is OK with good showers and toilets but overprized. Restaurant is nice but expensive. We shared the space with one dutch landy and 2 motorbikers. We were told however, that it can be crowded with Hymer-Campers. Behind the old fort there is a very nice spot for Bush camping (next to the camping interdit sign). We saw a couple of cars there the next morning.
Tafraoute Bush Camp Tafraoute N29 43.318 W8 59.088 20 Dirham community fee per car for bush camping at beautiful spot close to the village. Alternatively there are several campsites with high walls around. We stayed 2 nights at the scenic bush camp. Good location for day drives in the beautiful Anti Atlas. Nice village wih coffee houses, market and good local restaurants.
Agadir Camping Municipale N30 25.441 W9 36.491 20 Dirham p.p.p.n + 20 Dirham per car + 38 Dirham per tent. Overpriced, bad ablution blocks and crowded with french camper caravans. Unfortunately the only option in Agadir we have found. Pro: It is central. Tip: Walk to the old fishing harbor (past the new Marina) for good simple fish restaurants. Bargain hard BEFORE you order!
Marakesch Relais Marakesch N31 42.462 W7 59.316 70 Dirham for 2 people and car. This is a very well equipped campsite with friendly and helpful staff. We camped at the back to the left at the dead tree trunk. This gave us a good distance from the camper vans and some nice green. A recomended place.

BAB Auto Land Rover N31 40.254 W8 02.398 Good small Land Rover garage, where tour operators bring their vehicles. I had my Landy serviced incl. change of diff- and transferbox-oil. Fast, efficient, fair price.

Parking in center N31 37.445 W7 59.679 Parking for 20 Dirham per day and very central. Turn right at the park sign: N31 37.553 W7 59.684. Alternative is to take a taxi for 60 Dirham (one way) from the camp.
Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah Jardin N31 02.830 W7 08.086 Not great. Unfriendly staff very focused on money making. 60 Dirham for 2 people and car. 10 Dirham extra p.p for hot shower.
Dades Gorge Dades Gorge Auberge and Camping N31 33.439 W5 54.582 45 Dirham for 2 people and car. Very nice location in the gorge at the river. Very hot shower. Clean ablutions. On the far left side there is some wind protection.
Todra Gorge (Tamtatoucht) Les Amis N31 40.001 W5 33.149 60 Dirham for 2 people and car. The camping is nothing special but the restaurant is highly recommended. Mohamed speaks German (he spent 13 years in Germany) , English, French and is very friendly. He also cooks great moroccan food. The menue costs 100 Dirham and was the best food we had in morocco.
An alternative for camping under palm trees is Atlas Camp: N31 33.148 W5 35.090 (recommended by pistenkuh.de)
Nkoba Nkoba Camp N30 52.097 W5 52.092 60 Dirham for 2 people and car. Nothing special, no good atmosphere. Ok for 1 night.
Zagora Oasis Palmeriee N30 19.420 W5 49.582 15 Dh p.p.p.n + 15 Dh per car per night + 10 Dh for hot shower. Nice place under palm trees with tables and carpets at campsite. Clean toilets and shower. Recommended.
M6-Piste Bush Camp N30 40.303 W4 35.384 The area is good for bush camping. The specific spot we had is only good if there is not much wind. Otherwise drive a few hundred meters further.
Merzouga Les Pyramides N31 05.207 W4 00.389 50 Dirham for 2 people and car including warm shower. Good place at the dunes without walls, some camels. Free WiFi. Toilets not very clean.
Meski Source Bleu N31 51.399 W4 16.970 32 Dirham for 2 people and car. 10 Dirham for shower. The source is not really impressive and the campsite even less. If you like to be watched by locals as tourist attraction this is your place. Otherwise don't go. Ig need be, it is acceptable for one night and sheltered from wind.
Fez Diamant Verde N33 59.251 W5 01.124 80 Dirham for 2 people and car +20 Dirham for electricity even if you only charge labtop. Good place to stay if you want to explore Fez. Bus going to the city and 35 to 50 Dirham for petit taxi back from city (negotiate). The place is quiet and big enough to give you some space. Hot showers where good.
Chefchouan Azilan N35 10.596 W5 16.017 80 Dirham for 2 people and car. 10 Dirham for hot shower. Good place in walking distance to town. Free Wifi. There are some terraces in wooded area at the back that give you privacy from camper vans.
Tanger Ferry to Spain N35 47.338 W5 48.220 1350 Dirham for Land Rover and 2 people with FRS for ferry from Tanger to Tangir. We bought the ticket right at the entrance to the harbor. First offer was 200 Dirham more. Just take the offer and go to the next office one door down. Ferry leaves every 2 hours. Very easy and smooth border procedure. Took about 1.5 hour plus 1 hour waiting time for ferry.

Tabelle 19: VISA going north


Blackcontinent Tour 2010 – Heike & Stefan


Country Where we got the VISA GPS Coordinate Comments
Kenia, Tansania, ZA, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia at the border
Hakuna Matata
Mosambik Dar es Salam (Tansania)
5 days waiting time. No ViSA at the bridge going from Tansania to Mosambik.
At other borders (from ZA, Malawi, …) you get the VISA at the border.
Angola Berlin VISA Service
30 day tourist VISA (valid for 2 month after issuing). You need an invitation from a company. We got this through a business partner of the international company that I am working for. Well worth the effort. Angola is beuatiful.
DRC (Kongo Kinshasa) Berlin VISA Service
30 day tourist VISA (valid for 3 month after issuing).
RC (Kongo Brazzaville) Berlin VISA Service
14 day tourist VISA (valid for 3 month after issuing).
Gabon Berlin VISA Service
30 day tourist VISA (valid for 3 month after issuing).
Cameroon Libreville (Gabon) N0 25.321 E9 26.855 50.000 CFA, within one day. (application 8.30 pm to 11pm, pickup from 3pm to 4pm) → 1 picture
Nigeria Libreville (Gabon) N0 25.330 E9 26.547 50.000 CFA, within one day. (application 9.30pm, pickup from 3pm to 4pm) → 2 pictures, wanted a map copy with the route through Nigeria marked
Benin Libreville (Gabon) N0 25.573 E9 26.640 20.000 CFA, within one day. (application monday to Thurrsday, pickup from 3pm to 4pm) → 2 pictures, copy of passport
Togo Cotonou (Benin) → Visa Entente for 5 countries
The visa entente is valid for Benin, Togo, Burkina Faso, Ivory Coast, Niger and costs 25.000 CFA. It can be obtained only within these 5 countries. i.e. You have to buy a Visa for the first country that you visit and then go to the Immigration office in the capital of that country. We obtained the Visa entente in Cotonou (Benin) at immigration. Request before noon and pick up next day after 3pm. The visa is valid for 2 month. Each country can be visted only once. Note: The Burkina Faso Visa at the border is very expensive: 96.000 CFA. Half the price if you get it at the embassy and even cheaper if you use the Visa entente.
Burkina Faso
Ghana Lome (Togo) N6 08.329 E1 12.084 We DID NOT get the VISA. In January 2011 visa were only issued to residents, i.e. people holding a carte de sejour. Also no chance to get an unofficial visa at the border. We had a contact in Ghana with proper relations. This would have still cost us 300 US$ per visa. We skipped Ghana.
Mali Ouagadougou (Burkina Faso) N12 20.718 W1 31.579 30.000 CFA, 3 month multiple entry tourist visa. Request in the morning. Pick up same day at 2pm. Very friendly and helpful staff.
Mauretania Bamako (Mali) N12 39.726 W7 57.958 30.000 CFA, Request in the morning. Pick up same day at 3pm. Very friendly and efficient. They even brought the passports to the window of the car when we came for pick up.
Senegal Bamako (Mali) from sleeping camel in walking distance (west) No Visa needed for Germans, but we went to the embassy to get a laisser passer for 2000 CFA for our vehicle which is older than 5 years. You need a copy of the carte grise (Fahrzeugschein). This should help to avoid the issue of only getting the carnet stamped temporarily for 2 days at the border. All cars older than 5 years need to go to Dakar directly to receive an extension of the stay beyond that. Having the recommendation letter from the Senegalese ambassador in Mali worked for us, at least partially. We arrived at the border in Seraya (South-East Senegal) and were provided with a laisser passer for 7 days for the Kedougou district after lenghty discussions about whose authority needs to be respected. (Nevertheless it was important in Seraya that we showed the Carnet de Passage. They would not have allowed us to enter the country without one. We had some friendly discussions and they understood that we wanted to enjoy the hospitality and see the sights in Dindefelo.)
After 5 days we went to customs in Kedougou and got another laisser passer for 7 days with the goal to go into Gambia in Basse Santa. All without a stamp in the carnet.
Getting into North Senegal from Gambia: The letter worked and we got a 10 day laisser passer after some confusion/hassle.
Gambia, Morocco

No visa needed for Germans.